Banff & the Canadian Rockies

Landed in Calgary a little after noon and drove west. When the mountains filled the windshield near Canmore, we both went quiet.

Checked in, dropped the bags, and walked down to Bow Falls before dinner. The water really is that milky green, and it's loud in the best way. Dinner at the Old Spaghetti Factory, then a slow walk back up Banff Avenue with Cascade Mountain glowing at the end of the street.

Grateful for a short line at customs, an easy drive, and just being here.

Alarm at 5:30, on the road by 6. Worth every minute. The lake was perfectly still when we got there, and the glacier at the far end looked close enough to touch. One canoe slid across the middle while we stood on the shore, and nobody said a word.

We walked the lakeshore trail to the end and back. By 8:30 the parking lot was full and the shore was busy. Go early.

I'm grateful I got to see that color with my own eyes. The photos don't do it justice.

Rain rolled in after lunch out of nowhere. Five minutes of sun, then sideways drizzle. We almost left the rain shells in the car this morning. So glad we didn't.

Changed into dry socks in the parking lot and it felt like pure luxury. Once it cleared we rented a canoe. My arms gave out after twenty minutes, but the view from the middle of the lake was worth it.

Note for next time: a spare pair of socks lives in the day bag.

Up at 4 for the Moraine Lake shuttle and caught the peaks turning gold. Then on to Johnston Canyon.

Hiked Johnston Canyon this morning. The catwalks bolted to the canyon walls feel a little wild at first, then you stop noticing and just watch the water rushing below. At Lower Falls you duck through a small tunnel and come out right next to the spray.

We kept going to Upper Falls. It was quieter up there, and that's where I felt most at peace: sitting on a rock with a handful of trail mix, just listening.

A kind couple from Edmonton pointed out a little gray dipper bobbing on the rocks. We'd have walked right past it.

No alarm today. We walked the Bow River trail from town with nowhere to be.

The surprise: a bull elk with velvet antlers grazing right beside the path, completely unbothered by us. We backed off to give him plenty of room and watched for a while from a distance.

Grateful for one day with no plans in the middle of a trip full of them.